In Pursuit of Chopin: A soggy day in Krakow's Old City

Raise your hand if you want to go to the salt mines. About a third of us did, and went there in the afternoon after our walking tour and lunch. One of the attractions was that it has never been known to rain in the salt mines; the rain came down in buckets most of today, slacking off a bit in the evening.

Gabriel introduces one of the two guides that led us through the Old City today, including tours of cathedrals.

The first stop after walking to the Old City from our hotel (only about 6 or 7 blocks) was an archway where we could get out of the rain and have a look around.

This is what we were looking at -- one of the old city's medieval gates. We were still in a park at this point; the old city is through the gate.

When we got closer, it was obvious that not everything in the old city is old.

Most of the street scenes aren't of McDonalds. There are lots of beautiful old buildings. Unlike Warsaw, Krakow was not bombed during World War II, so buildings that look old are in fact the original buildings, from every century since the middle ages. In the second photo below, a fleet of overgrown golf carts of a tour company are waiting for tourists. In vain, because of the rain.

This street contains consulates of various nations, including ours. There's a crowd of people outside the gate, presumably to obtain visas.

The ante-chamber to the Franciszkańska, or Basilica of St Francis, a large and very old church. The second photo shows what must be in the running for the world's most elaborate picture frame. That's an oil painting in the oval.

The altar, and a stained glass window of the creation, entitled "Become!" by Stanislaw Wyspianski, c. 1900. Some call it "Krakow's greatest window." Our guide showed us the pew in which Pope John Paul II normally sat, before he became pope. Most of the church's interior was simply too dark for photography.

We climbed the hill to the Cathedral Basilica of Sts. Stanisław and Vaclav, also called Wawel Cathedral. The colors are much more striking when it's not raining; see the Wikipedia entry for some gorgeous pictures.

A courtyard in the cathedral, mostly devoid of people because of the rain. The rain shows pretty clearly in the second photo.

No photography is allowed in the cathedral. The inside is breathtaking, including lots of beautiful chapels around the sides (one dating to the 15th century, with painted ceiling and walls and original 15th century works of art). We toured the crypt, where many Polish kings are buried, and saw the tomb of Polish President Lech Kaczyński and his wife who were killed recently in a plane crash.

On the way out, the rain lifted enough to take this picture of the cathedral.

Most of the group continued with the walking tour, but seven of us bailed (so to speak) and went ahead to the restaurant where we were to have lunch. A pleasant hour's conversation (not to mention the wine) before the rest of the group arrived.

Gabriel explaining what to expect. The restaurant is in the cellar of a building in the old town, and is very quaint. The food and service were excellent, as we've come to expect.